Eat at Eleven Madison Park and a bartender will wheel a cocktail cart alongside your table to make you a manhattan as deftly balanced as Philippe Petit on a tightrope; a snowy globe of celery root will come hot and tender out of an inflated pig’s bladder before being bathed in a truffled sauce; a sommelier will open a bottle of wine by firing up a pair of tongs with what looks like a Bunsen burner and then squeezing the hot tongs right below the cork to melt the glass; for dessert, a torrent of blue flame will pour down the white slopes of your Baked Alaska.
From “The Passion of Daniel Humm” by Jeff Gordinier for Esquire; Photo by Henry Leutwyler (@henryleutwyler)
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