Noma Reinvents Itself
The first act of a meal at Noma passes as a dream; rich sea snail bouillon sipped from its herb-smeared shell fading into a field of empty cockleshells in which two or three contain the sweet meat; a mussel constructed from the chewy lips of half a dozen mussels woven into a single shell; hot shrimp and cold shrimp heads; a sea star painted on a rough earthen plate with the most delicate cured trout roe and a splash of eggy cream. You taste foods in ways you've never thought about tasting them before, sipped concoctions of plankton and rhubarb with them as if they were fine wine.
From “The World’s Most Influential Restaurant Reinvents Itself” by Jonathan Gold for the LA Times; Photos by Jason Loucas
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