Jonathan Gold on David Chang in L.A.
That fuming, blackened haunch of meat you see on half the tables at the new Majordomo (@majordomola) — that's the whole plate short rib, a massive cut rubbed with spices, slapped into a smoker for the better part of a day, carved into elegant slices tableside, and served with enough fermented Korean sauces, herbs and wrappers to feed four starving carnivores. The peppery formula was inspired by barbecue god Adam Perry Lang, whose initials appear on the menu, but the dish, a shotgun marriage between the barbecue traditions of Texas and Korea, is all David Chang. A few bourbons and an excellent plate of beef-fried rice made with the leftovers may help you forget the $190 that the short rib costs. Then again, they may not.
From “At Majordomo, Jonathan Gold is unsure whether to praise chef David Chang — or bury him,” by Jonathan Gold for the LA Times; Photo by Wally Skalij (@wallyskalij)
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