On the Berbere Spice Blend
Berbere — a deep-red spice blend whose recipe, like those for curry and mole, varies from kitchen to kitchen, but typically begins with red pepper, cardamom, fenugreek and ginger — has long been a staple in Ethiopian cooking. “It’s what lends the stewed and roasted dishes called wats their distinctive and aromatic heat,” says Sam Saverance, co-owner of Brooklyn’s vegan Bunna Cafe (@bunnacafe), which serves a red lentil wat (at the center of the platter pictured above) as well as kategna, a berbere and olive oil paste spread over injera (sourdough flatbread). In addition to making berbere-spiced classics, Christopher Roberson of Etete, a contemporary Ethiopian restaurant in Washington, D.C., has lately been experimenting with berbere in other types of dishes, too, as with his popular injera chicken tacos with collard greens and fresh farmer’s cheese.
From “Heat Wave” by Katie Chang for New York Times Style Magazine; Photo by Anders Ahlgren (@ahlgrensbilder)
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