Pass the Pastries!
The croissants of Baker Doe (@bakerdoe.sf)— a delivery-only pastry service in San Francisco, run by a husband and wife who decline to reveal their identities — appear like a new species startled in the wild. One is striped blue, with a coif of cotton candy in hydrangea hues and a lode of chile-enflamed orange curd waiting to be unleashed; another, ringed in deep purple, flaunts a lavender shard of ube (purple yam) like a lone, useless wing. They are originals, yet they don’t exist in isolation: Others of their kin — that is, pastries in thrillingly deviant forms with classical French lineage but non-canonical ingredients (often drawn from Asian cuisines), as likely to be savory as sweet — can be spotted at Sugarbloom Bakery (@sugarbloombakery) in Los Angeles, confettied in nori; at Bake Code (@bakecode) in Toronto, blackened by charcoal under a rosy crust of mentaiko (cod roe); and at Supermoon Bakehouse in New York, piped with rum crème pâtissière and pineapple jelly in a mirage of a piña colada.
From “Vive le Croissant!” by Ligaya Mishan for New York Times Style Magazine; Photo by Patricia Heal
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