Joël Robuchon’s Quail
Paul Bocuse had his chicken, Escoffier was into pheasant, and Joël Robuchon’s bird of obsession was the quail. In his most famous preparation, the quail’s breast is stuffed with foie gras — in either mousse or pâté form — poached gently in chicken broth, brushed with a mixture of soy sauce and honey, and then roasted until the skin is crisp and caramelized. When made properly, poking it with a fork is a little bit like breaking through the crust of a crème brûlée.
Sometimes made with pigeon, this dish is always served with a sidecar of mashed potatoes that have been topped with shavings of black truffle. Those who’ve had chef Daniel Humm’s roasted chicken for two will recognize this technique as well as the flavor combination of poultry, foie gras, a sweet glaze, and black truffles.
From Daniela Galarza’s contribution to “Joël Robuchon’s Legacy Explained in Eight Dishes” on Eater; Photo by Gary He
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